We’ll start with the question of why players chalk their cue tips so often. If you are a beginner, you will quickly learn how and when to use chalk. The primary function of chalking the cue tip is to prevent a miscue by the tip sliding off the ball. You will notice that most players will use chalk before every shot. On some occasions, more chalk will be applied if the shot being made requires English or some other type of spin. The application of the chalk will aid in your initial contact with the cue ball and will help to prevent you from making a bad shot. This commonly seen little cube of chalk will become your best friend as you progress as a player. Cue tip chalk is made by crushing silica and the abrasive substance corundum or aloxite into a powder and using forced air to achieve the desired consistency. It is combined with dye (originally and most commonly green or blue-green) and a binder (glue).

Finally, hydraulic press is used to compress the “chalk” into large cakes which are dried on a rack, and then cut into small cubes, dimpled on the top to receive the cue tip, and wrapped in paper sleeves. Each manufacturer’s brand has different qualities, which can significantly affect play. High humidity can also impair the effectiveness of chalk. Harder, drier compounds are generally considered superior by most players.

The other type of chalk is applies to the hands. This is not seen as often, unless you are playing at an experienced or professional level. Many casual players opt to play bare hand without applying chalk or using grip gloves. Hand chalk can be used to reduce friction between the cue and bridge hand during shooting, for a smoother stroke. Some brands of hand chalk actually are made of compressed talc. Hand chalk comes in two forms – as a solid and in powdery talc form. The cone-shaped chalk shown below is a popular style seen in many bars and pool halls. The portion of the bridge hand that contacts the cue shaft is rubbed across the cone and the chalk transfers to the hand. The use of hand chalk or talc is entirely up to the player. Where cue tip chalk must be used, hand chalk is totally optional.

Chalking your cue tip is essential to playing the game and maintaining control over your shots. Don’t ever overlook the step of chalking up before a shot. You will find that if this is omitted, the majority of your shots will be miscues and your accuracy will suffer. Hand chalk is a personal preference. Many professional players prefer to use a slick pool glove over hand chalk or talc because of the messiness of the powders. Another way to avoid use of hand chalk is to simply use a hand towel. All three of these things serve the same purpose. The drier your hands are, the better control you will have over your cue stick.

The public pool hall does seem to carry a stigma with it somewhat in comparison to that of tattoo parlors. The initial thought is of a smoky, dimly lit room with “shady” characters. That is not at all the case. There are many pool halls that are non-smoking, very clean and a pleasure to play in. You will have to seek out a few and see what environment you would like to play in. Many pool halls are now set up for the family. Some have arcades on one side, and pool tables on the other, most often connected by a place to sit and eat. You will usually have access to a bar, so choose wisely if you are bringing children along.

Most bars also have pool tables. Though there are not as many as you would find in a pool hall, it is still an opportunity to play. Most times, bar room pool tables are of lower quality. If you are looking to practice certain techniques, I would suggest not to play on a bar room table. On the other hand, if you just want a friendly game, go for it. You should know ahead of time that bar pool tables are primarily coin operated. This wouold mean once a ball enters a pocket, it cannot be retrieved. The only ball you will have continuous access to will be the cue ball.

Many towns and cities also have pool and billiard leagues available for both men and women. It’s best to ask around and get to know the various places in which you can play. Most leagues will have tournament style play as well as some trick shooting competitions. Even if you are not looking to join a league, it is still a great place to go watch and learn from other players.

Finally, if you’ve had a long week and just don’t have the energy, turn to technology! There are endless web sites that offer virtual pool games. This is really a great way to learn your angles and practice rail shots. Most sites will not charge you to play, and offer one, two and three player games. Again, this is a wonderful way of having a “virtual tutor.” Many times, software programs will have tips to offer and will explain rules as you go along. It could be a great introduction to the game if you are unsure whether you want to make the investment.

If you are the lucky owner of a pool table, you will probably progress at a much faster rate that other beginners. The more you play, the better you get, and since you will have more access to a table by owning one, your game will improve much quicker than the player playing on the outside.

In our time, the two can easily be exchanged and mean the same thing. When people refer to one, it is assumed the other is also being included. On the technical side, there is a difference. Billiards is played with smaller balls. In billiards, only three balls are used white, yellow and red and both the white and the yellow ball can act as the strikers. Billiards is basically pool without pockets. Usually the cloth on a billiards table is much faster. The object in billiards (3 cushion billiards) is to hit the object ball then go three rails and hit the other ball, or hit 3 rails and hit both object balls with the cue ball (these are called caroms).

Most of us are familiar with pool and pool tables. Some of us may be aware of the different variations of the pool game, a few being eight-ball, nine-ball and cut throat. As stated above, billiards is played on a table with no pockets. We know that pool tables are constructed with 6 pockets. The game is played with two sets of balls, each containing seven balls, with one set being solid colored and the other striped. The two sets are combined into one set and then completed by a black eight ball. This is a standard set of pool balls, and can be broken up to play different versions of the game.

Though there are vast differences between the two games, they are commonly grouped as one and refered to as cue sports. If someone says they’re going to shoot a game of billiards, we all know what they are referring to in general. It all depends on what style of the game you would like to play. Billiards is a form of pool. So perhaps in future reference, it should all be covered by using the term pool, unless you are actually playing by billiards rules and regulations.

At pool, a push shot involves a very special kind of stroke and is played when the cue ball is frozen to the object ball. This stroke is a foul. (At pool it is legal to shoot towards a ball the cue ball is frozen to, assuming no other foul, and with a normal stroke.) In a push shot, the tip is brought slowly, slowly, very slowly up to the cue ball until it is just touching or about to touch, and then the tip is accelerated for the shot.

There are two examples of when a push-shot is used. The first is when a ball is frozen to the rail close to a corner pocket. The cue ball is frozen to the object ball and straight out from the rail. The shot is straight towards the object ball, with the tip placed on the equator of the cue ball with lots of side away from the pocket. Once very gentle contact of tip-to-ball is made the tip is gradually pushed forward and the object ball sort of slips out from behind the cue ball and goes straight into the near pocket.

The second example is when the cue ball is on the foot spot, and an object ball is frozen as if it had been spotted; both are on the foot string. A desirable object ball is in the jaws of one of the foot pockets. A legal way to pocket the hung ball is to point the cue stick at a point on the foot rail half way between the center of the rail and the target pocket, and shoot a normal center ball stroke. An illegal push shot is to elevate the butt of the stick to about 45 degrees, address the cue ball for extreme follow, and shoot a gradual push shot. In this case the cue ball will nearly ignore the object ball, and go close to the line of aim, rather than the double “angle” of the first (legal) method.

So as not to get too confused, try to keep in mind that a “push out” ismost commonly used when playing nine-ball. The player who shoots the shot immediately after a legal break may play a push out in an attempt to move the cue ball into a better position for the option that follows. On a push out, the cue ball is not required to contact any object ball nor any rail, but all other foul rules still apply. The player must announce the intention of playing a push out before the shot, or the shot is considered to be a normal shot. Any ball pocketed on a push out does not count and remains pocketed except the 9-ball. Following a legal push out, the incoming player is permitted to shoot from that position or to pass the shot back to the player who pushed out. A push out is not considered to be a foul as long as no rule is violated.

On a jump shot, your cue ball jumps at an angle equal to the angle at which it is struck. Another words the higher your cue stick the higher the jump angle. The harder you shoot, the longer the jump. The jump stroke must be shot with a very loose back arm grip. This allows the cue stick to get out of the way of the ball so you don’t “trap” the ball as it’s trying the jump. It is a foul if a player strikes the cue ball below center (“digs under” it) and intentionally causes it to rise off the bed of the table in an effort to clear an obstructing ball. Such jumping action may occasionally occur accidentally, and such “jumps” are not to be considered fouls on their face; they may still be ruled foul strokes, if for example, the ferrule or cue shaft makes contact with the cue ball in the course of the shot.

Unless otherwise stated in rules for a specific game it is legal to cause the cue ball to rise off the bed of the table by elevating the cue stick on the shot, and forcing the cue ball to rebound from the bed of the table. Any miscue when executing a jump shot is a foul.

Everyone like to be a big shot, and nothing makes you look cooler than executing a proper billiard and pool jump shot technique and pocketing the intended object ball that nobody thought you could get at. Though this may be the case, you should remember to consider and assess all other options and angles for shot options first. If you use the jump shot when you don’t really need to, your opponent and other spectators may regard you as a showboat and may lose existing respect for your game. Jump shots are not easy to make, and are even harder to control. It will take you a lot of practice, but more so, a lot of patience to master your jump shot. Beginners should start with a jump shot that is not of great height. Get the technique down then try jumping a full ball. To jump a full ball from one ball away you’ll need to elevate to 85 degrees or more. The only way to become proficient at this technique is to develop your own style and perfect it.

There is a quick way to test yourself. Hold your thumb up, arm extended and block out a distant object, a lamp or a vase. Don’t focus on your thumb, but on the distant object. Your dominant eye will be in line with your thumb while your non-dominant eye will be seeing past it. When you close your non-dominant eye, your thumbs should be completely blocking the object.

Aside from aiming by use of your dominant eye, there is another way to accurately aim your shot. This other technique for aiming is by the use of your cue stick. First, you need to determine the line of path of your object ball to the pocket and point your cue stick in that direction. Next, you must consider the width of the object ball. Place the tip of your cue stick at 1/2 width from the object ball. This is your aim point. The last thing you need to do is simply point your cue stick aim at the “aim” point and stroke.

In order to shoot center pocket, pinpoint aiming is required. It feels nice to have an accurate shot rather then to make a sloppy pocket and on long shots an accurate aim becomes more of a necessity. Pinpoint accuracy requires a pinpoint aim, that is, when determining your object ball contact point do not have a general area. Make your ball contact point be like a pinpoint, not like the size of a dime. If your object ball contact point is sloppy, so will be your end result. It also takes total concentration on that pinpoint spot to not lose it, in other words, keep your eye on the object ball and not jump back and forth between the cue ball and object ball.

As you get used to aiming, the process will not be mechanical, your movement will flow naturally. When you find yourself missing for unknown reasons, go back to the basics and it is a good chance you will get out of the slump. Perfecting any aiming technique will take a lot of time, but try not to get discouraged. Explore the various techniques and see what works best for you. These are not rules set in stone, just some aiming guidelines to help develop your aiming style and technique.

There are many choices to be made when making a custom table. The thickness of your slate, the color of the cloth for the playing surface, material used for rails and pockets. Most people who own a pool table in their homes consider it a piece of furniture as well as a for entertainment, so be sure to get what you want and what fits into your lifestyle. After deciding your slate, you will need to choose a color for the table. Often there are more than 30 choices. Surfaces are a lot like carpeting, coming in various weights. The common preferred weight is from 20 to 22 ounces. Be sure that it is a good nylon-wool blend. The cloth used to cover the slate and the rails is designed specifically for pool tables. Although it is often referred to as felt (a fabric formed by compressing fibers rather than weaving), it is actually a woven fabric with a nap (exposed, short, fuzzy fiber ends) on one surface.

Your rails and pockets are all personal choices as far as coloring and materials. You can go plain to keep the cost down, or have carved rails with leather pockets, creating an ornate piece of furniture. It’s really all up to you. Your playing surface and felt covering should be the main concern for quality. Diamond- or circular-shaped sights embedded in the rail tops are usually made of mother of pearl, abalone shell, or plastic. Pocket irons may be made of cast iron, zinc alloy, aluminum, rubber, or high-impact styrene plastic. Traditionally, pocket liners are made of leather (solid or net), but plastic or rubber is also used.

A table made well will last you years and bring much pleasure. For those of you wondering the cost, an inexpensive table might have particle board components that do not hold screws or staples as well as solid wood. Tables vary widely in quality and cost; a casual player who wants a table for a few years of personal recreation can get one for around $600. So-called popularly priced tables, which are well-built, durable, and attractive, may cost $1,600-$3,000. Remember, your primary aim should be for that of stability and durability.

It can be particularly difficult for a beginning pool player to break a racked set of balls. This is a good way to practice and become comfortable with breaking. Start by putting the cue ball on the head spot. (When you get better, you can position the cue ball anywhere next to or behind the head spot to make the break.) After making sure your grip is correct and you have a comfortable stance, aim the cue ball to hit the leading ball of the rack squarely in the front. Do not stop your shot when you make contact with the cue. Follow through with a smooth motion for an extra 6-18 inches. Practicing this now will help you later as you add speed and power to your break. Always try to hit the cue ball as hard as you can without your cue slipping off to one side or off the ball completely. A foul on a break is a very embarrassing way to start.

You will find that once you begin to gain confidence in your break, you will shoot harder and perform better breaks. Ideally, a good break is one in which no balls are left touching another ball. The perfect break, when playing eight ball, would be to sink the eight ball off the break shot, thus gaining an immediate win! Though this situation arises rarely, it has been achieved and can be quite a thrill the first time it is accomplished.

The break is probably the most important shot of the game. It will set the playing field for all the shots to follow. Spend time on your breaking techniques and styles. Once you are comfortable breaking with the cue on the head spot, move the cue around to different positions. Moving the cue and striking the rack from different angles will have a different effect on the break. Many players have mastered their break so that they sink at least two balls every time they break. It will take time and patience, but this is a shot you must master if you ever want to become a decent player. Often, players place the cue ball in the same position on the table when breaking. After trial and error and many hours of practice, you will find your own “hot spot” and will have an effective break almost every time.

If you have a new table, the cloth may interact with the roll of the balls for the break in period. This is completely normal, but to speed up the break-in process, it helps by brushing the cloth as frequently as possible. The table, new or used, should be brushed before and after every game played. Be sure to always brush the cloth in the same direction and never use circular motions. The surface may be vacuumed if necessary, again, always in the same direction. To avoid exposure to humidity, spills and other hazards, it is recommended that you cover the table when not in use.

Avoid excessive ball build up or storage in the pockets of your table. The balls will wear out the cloth around the pockets if they cannot drop freely inside. Stored balls for lengthy periods may also stretch the pockets depending on what material they are made from. If your table was made with leather used to create the pockets, ball build up will deffinitely affect the shape of the pockets over time. This may not happen so much if the material is weaved or made of mesh, but it is always a good idea not to let the balls build up regardless of the material used.

If your table has a natural wood finish, it should be dusted and cleaned frequently. Your investment may be for entertainment, but it is also a piece of furniture and a possible heirloom. Wood finishes can be restored by using a non-residue forming dusting agent, such as lemon oil. Never use a cleaner that contains ammonia as it can chemically damage the finish. Though it is possible to re-finish the wood if staining occurs, it is best to prevent that as much as possible. Taking general care of the wood on the rails will lengthen the life of the table and reduce the possible cost of repairs in the future. Considering the cost of your investment, it is wise to care for it in a way that will allow you to enjoy it for years to come.

If you have your table stored in a recreation room where food and drinks will be present, try to encourage the use of coasters. Never set a can, glass or bottle on any part of the table. The moisture will cause damage and will also leave stains. A no food or drink policy is often in place at local pool halls, and they are never allowed near tournament tables. One final thing to remember, do not sit or stand on any part of the table. Aside from possibly injuring yourself, you will affect the table leverage and the balls will not travle as they should. Always keep unnecessary weight off of the table, both during play and not.

One way is to play with an all finger grip where all five fingers remain in constant contact with the butt all the way through the stroke and never alter except for perhaps a slight squeeze on contact with the cue ball. This method requires the cue arm to be perfectly vertical at address of the cue ball or the cue will lift on the backswing causing a scooping motion. This is the most common way to grip a cue stick among beginners and casual players, and allows the most control. Do not put your thumb on top of the cue, because this will lock up your wrist, and it’s very important for your wrist to stay relaxed.

Most pros use a different grip, only the thumb and first finger remain constant , the others flex open on the backstroke and close on the forward stroke. This has the effect of tracking the cue and keeping it on line, also greatly increasing cue ball control and cue power. On the final backswing the little finger practically comes off the cue altogether, this allows the cue to remain flat , on the follow through the fingers all close and return to the original position.

No matter what style grip you use, it is important to keep your grip loose and relaxed. This will allow you to follow through on your stroke. A proper grip allows you control and accurate shots. Bad grips will limit your potential for improvement. At all times, your cue should feel well balanced in your hand. For normal shots, your hand should be in the center of the wrap. For shots that require more “touch” and accuracy, try moving your hand forward on the wrap, shortening the length between your bridge hand and the ferrule. For shots that require more power, try moving your hand back on the wrap, lengthening the distance between your bridge hand and the ferrule. Always remember to stay down and follow through on your shots.

The key to determine your grip is to find the balance point of the cue. To find the balance point, take your index finger and balance the cue stick on it so that it teeters on its own. Once it is balanced, take a mental note of the point on the cue stick where your finger was holding it and use this as your balance point or reference point. In general, but depending on how tall you are, you should grip the cue at least six inches back from the balance point towards butt end of the cue stick. Shorter players should place their grip hand slightly closer to the balance point we found earlier, while taller players should put their gripping hand a greater distance away from the balance point. This process will eliminate the chance of developing a bad grip and will start your beginners’ career off on the right foot.