Where Can I Play Pool?

For those of us not blessed with a table in our home, there are many places to play pool if you are interested in learning the game or are already an experienced player. Many towns now have public pool halls where tables are rented out hourly. These businesses will be listed in phone books or you may find them online.

The public pool hall does seem to carry a stigma with it somewhat in comparison to that of tattoo parlors. The initial thought is of a smoky, dimly lit room with “shady” characters. That is not at all the case. There are many pool halls that are non-smoking, very clean and a pleasure to play in. You will have to seek out a few and see what environment you would like to play in. Many pool halls are now set up for the family. Some have arcades on one side, and pool tables on the other, most often connected by a place to sit and eat. You will usually have access to a bar, so choose wisely if you are bringing children along.

Most bars also have pool tables. Though there are not as many as you would find in a pool hall, it is still an opportunity to play. Most times, bar room pool tables are of lower quality. If you are looking to practice certain techniques, I would suggest not to play on a bar room table. On the other hand, if you just want a friendly game, go for it. You should know ahead of time that bar pool tables are primarily coin operated. This wouold mean once a ball enters a pocket, it cannot be retrieved. The only ball you will have continuous access to will be the cue ball.

Many towns and cities also have pool and billiard leagues available for both men and women. It’s best to ask around and get to know the various places in which you can play. Most leagues will have tournament style play as well as some trick shooting competitions. Even if you are not looking to join a league, it is still a great place to go watch and learn from other players.

Finally, if you’ve had a long week and just don’t have the energy, turn to technology! There are endless web sites that offer virtual pool games. This is really a great way to learn your angles and practice rail shots. Most sites will not charge you to play, and offer one, two and three player games. Again, this is a wonderful way of having a “virtual tutor.” Many times, software programs will have tips to offer and will explain rules as you go along. It could be a great introduction to the game if you are unsure whether you want to make the investment.

If you are the lucky owner of a pool table, you will probably progress at a much faster rate that other beginners. The more you play, the better you get, and since you will have more access to a table by owning one, your game will improve much quicker than the player playing on the outside.

Aiming And The Dominant Eye

As with many things, one side is stronger than the other. For most people, this hold true with their eyes, and one eye is much more dominant in seeing alignments. Normally, right-handers are right-eyed and vise versa for left. There are cases of being cross-dominant where the right-handed has a strong left eye, and there are also cases of no dominant eye at all, known as ambi-ocular. For aiming, locate your dominant eye directly over your cue. If you are cross dominant, this may call for some adjustments in your position, but be sure to be aiming when you are lined up and over your cue.

There is a quick way to test yourself. Hold your thumb up, arm extended and block out a distant object, a lamp or a vase. Don’t focus on your thumb, but on the distant object. Your dominant eye will be in line with your thumb while your non-dominant eye will be seeing past it. When you close your non-dominant eye, your thumbs should be completely blocking the object.

Aside from aiming by use of your dominant eye, there is another way to accurately aim your shot. This other technique for aiming is by the use of your cue stick. First, you need to determine the line of path of your object ball to the pocket and point your cue stick in that direction. Next, you must consider the width of the object ball. Place the tip of your cue stick at 1/2 width from the object ball. This is your aim point. The last thing you need to do is simply point your cue stick aim at the “aim” point and stroke.

In order to shoot center pocket, pinpoint aiming is required. It feels nice to have an accurate shot rather then to make a sloppy pocket and on long shots an accurate aim becomes more of a necessity. Pinpoint accuracy requires a pinpoint aim, that is, when determining your object ball contact point do not have a general area. Make your ball contact point be like a pinpoint, not like the size of a dime. If your object ball contact point is sloppy, so will be your end result. It also takes total concentration on that pinpoint spot to not lose it, in other words, keep your eye on the object ball and not jump back and forth between the cue ball and object ball.

As you get used to aiming, the process will not be mechanical, your movement will flow naturally. When you find yourself missing for unknown reasons, go back to the basics and it is a good chance you will get out of the slump. Perfecting any aiming technique will take a lot of time, but try not to get discouraged. Explore the various techniques and see what works best for you. These are not rules set in stone, just some aiming guidelines to help develop your aiming style and technique.

The Masse Technique

Masse is a term used to identify a technique in which the cue ball follows a curved path. It is used to make tight turns around interfering balls. Though a difficult shot to master, it can be quite useful in tournament play. The masse is an extremely complicated combination of physics that requires careful observation and lots of practice. This shot is not intended for the amateur player. You can cause severe damage to the surface of the table if the shot is not executed correctly. Tears and rips will occur and you will also damage the tips on your cue stick. It is not a recommended shot, but if you are able to master it, it will come in handy many times over especially for trick shooters, though you will be rolling the dice in the accuracy department.

With a masse shot, the angle of the cue ball path and shot speed play a huge role. If you do not have a good feel for the speed and the effects of table conditions, you will not be very successful with masse shots. To perform this shot, you will raise the butt of your cue so that it is almost perpendicular. Many players sit on the rail as they perform this type of shot. Looking down the shaft to the cue, you will aim your shot. You will be striking the cue ball on an outer surface causing the spin needed to curve around the object. The only way to truly perfect this shot is to try it over and over again. This could prove to be an expensive ordeal as you will be repairing your table quite often.

It is critical to have a stable bridge and an accurate stroke to be confident with the contact point on the cue ball. The type of cloth can and will have a big impact on masse action. A high-friction cloth can make it difficult to get a big curve because the initial impact with the table cloth can limit the action of the cue stick. Masse shot practice can be abusive to the table cloth, especially if you are still developing your technique. If you care about the table you are using to practice on, you should consider using a spare piece of cloth to limit the possible abuse and future repairs.

There are a variety of shots and techniques players use to navigate around interfering balls. Masse is one of the more common techniques, but I would recommend casual players and beginners to steer clear of it and try to focus on your regular game. The fancy stuff can come later once you have truly mastered the fundamentals of the game. Of course, it is every pool players dream to be the next well known trick shooter, but until you have a solid form and developed techniques, it’s best to save the “pretty” shots for last.

How To Choose A Cue Stick

In general, it is difficult to tell if you would like a cue stick just by reading about it. Even the terms that different people use to describe these characteristics (hard, soft, harsh, stiff, forgiving, well-balanced, etc.) are subjective and difficult to quantify. Some of the important things can be quantified (length, weight, balance point, shaft taper, shaft diameter, squirt), but they’re not the whole story. And if you are a beginner, or seriously working on your game for the first time, you can expect your own preferences to change as your game matures.

As a beginning billiards player, most of you might only be using cue sticks provided by the billiards place where you play. However, if you want to really improve your game you need to have your own cue so you won’t have the problem of having to adjust to the length of the cue or the weight of the cue or the diameter of the cue tip. It is important to take note (while you still don’t have a cue stick) the type of cue that you feel most comfortable with. Experiment with different cue sticks. Examine the weight, the length and the diameter of the tip. After you’ve decided on what is most comfortable to you then you are ready to buy one.

There are some points to consider when shopping for your cue. First, make sure that the cue stick is straight and not crooked. Although most of the production cues are not crooked, it’s always good to check just in case. You can do this by rolling the cue stick on a flat surface, if it is crooked then you will notice it right away. Another way of looking at the stick is to look at the butt end of the cue while pointing the other end downwards then roll it a few times and you should be able to notice if it is crooked or not. Second, the weight of the cue stick. Typically, a cue stick weighs between 18 to 21 ounzes. Find out what weight is comfortable for you and stick with it. Third, the length of the cue stick should be dependent the length of your arm. Longer arms, longer stick. The length of production cues typically starts at 57 inches.

If you would like to customize it a bit, getting a two-part cue will add about $30 to your price. You can go further and add on leather grips and some decorations. Rule of thumb is that if you pay more than $100 for a cue stick, you are paying for brand and ornamentation, not so much quality. A good tip is probably more important than the cue. Shun a cue that’s more than two parts, has a screw-on tip, is painted in festive colors, or is made in Taiwan. Made in Japan is OK, the Adam line, made there, is one of the best. Get the best tips you can, the return on the money you spend is greater there than anywhere else. Seek good construction over great looks. Be sure to compare the cue sticks before choosing the one that catches your eye. Feel comfortable with the weight and the length. You will be using this stick for years to come, so be sure your investment is just right for your style of playing.

How To Care For Your Cue Stick

The first thing you should do is invest in a case. This will protect the cue from humidity and falls or tip damage. Moisture is the biggest cause in your cue warping. Keep your cue away from moisture and very humid places. This minimiizes the chances of your cue warping over time. Remember, however, that since wood is a natural material, there is no foolproof way to 100% guarantee you cue will not warp at all. They will all warp a little or more over time. A hard case is better than a soft case, and be sure to store your case upright. Now that it is safely stored in a protective case, remember to always wash your hands before you play and several hours after play.

Joint protectors should be considered if you are using a multi-piece cue. These will halp to prevent moisture from entering by the shaft and butt of the cue. They screw into either end and will keep the moisture out and prevent warping. If by chance your cue does get warped, a slight warp is nothing to worry too much about. Just take caution when you play your game to position the cue the same for every shot. You want the warp on the vertical plane not the horizontal. The best way to check your cue for warping is by “sighting”. Look straight down from the butt to the shaft, just as you would sight a rifle. The warp will be obvious, and you can then decide your positioning for your shots.

If you find the warp to be severe and are unable to bend it back into shape or cannot adjust your positioning, consider buying a new cue. Remember, investing in a case will save you these hassles down the road. After taking the precautions to avoid warping, turn your attention to the cue tip. The tip on your new cue may be shiney, smooth, and somewhat flat when you first get your cue. You may shape the tip to desired roundness, but many beginners just play with it the way it is. In either case, how you play and the way you stroke your cue will determine the final shape of your tip and constant shaping will wear your tip down very fast. There is an easy process for replacing tips if you find you need to do that. There are a few things you will need to have on hand before you begin. Make sure to have the new tip, a razor blade, glue, preferably SuperGlue Gel or Duro-gel, Loctite, 60-80 grip sandpaper, 400-600 grit sandpaper and some paper towels.

To start, remove what is left of the old tip using the razor blade. Be sure not to cut into the wood. Using the 60-80 grit sandpaper, sand the top of the ferrule (white plastic piece and the end of your cue, sometimes this is a brass piece). Then sand the bottom of the new tip with the same sandpaper until it is rough. Now that the tip and surfaces are prepared, you will attach the new tip. Apply a light coat of glue to both the ferrule and the bottom of the new tip. Only a small amount is needed on both pieces. Next, carefully center the tip onto the ferrule and hold in place for about a minute. When the glue has set, carefully use the razor to remove any excess over hang so the tip is flush with the ferrule. To finish up, wet the sides of the tip slightly and burnish using the 400-600 sandpaper. You may also use the same paper to shape the tip to your desired radius. Allow the glue to dry completely before using for play. You’re ready to go! It is also important to keep your cue stick clean. After playing, you will notice a build-up of chalk on the tip. If you play using hand chalk, that will also be evident on the shaft. After play, it is a good idea to remember to always wipe down your stick. Any experienced billiard shooter will attest that nothing is worse and harms your shot more than a sticky cue shaft. There are several techniques that one can use to clean their pool cue shaft, ranging from a simply dry wipe-down, to and involved pool cue shaft smoothing and burnishing.

The buildup of sticky residue can accumulate over time if your pool cue shaft is not cleaned properly. You can help slow the buildup of sticky residue by always wiping the pool cue shaft down with a cotton cloth after play, as well as by doing the obvious; ensuring that you play with cleanly washed hands. You can also use a slightly damp cloth, but it is imperative that you completely and thoroughly dry the pool cue shaft immediately after wiping it clean to prevent warping.

All About Regulation Pool Balls

Obviously, one of the major pieces of equipment needed to play pool is the set of balls. Without them, there would be no game! The balls are designed specifically for the game and coincide with the physics involved in overall play. As you read, you will find out how the balls are made, what materials are used, regulation weights and more. You will soon find that it is not just an ordinary orb placed on the table, and that much design and engineering is involved.

The earliest balls were made of wood clay. These were used for years until the use of ivory came into play. Ivory balls were short lived. By the 1800′s, millions of elephants were being slaughtered to obtain the ivory used to make the balls as well as many other items. Only eight balls could be made from one elephant! Seeing this as unfit, a new material was sought after.

A composition material was then invented, called cellulose nitrate. It was later commercially branded Celluloid, also known as the first industrial plastic to be marketed. Thought to be a great invention for making the balls, the material was soon not accepted as it caused the balls to occasionally explode, making these plastic billiard balls impractical. The invention of this material served many other useful purposes as the use of plastic became more accepted, but as for the pool game, it was unacceptable.

Other compounds were experimented with until the perfect material had been found. Today’s balls are cast from phenolic resin. This material is resistant to chipping and cracking and has become an industry standard. It is the only ball material used today in play by professionals. There are lower grade balls made of polyester, but use of these result in shorter ball and cloth life.

The balls we commonly see today are made of resin and are regulated by weight and color. The standard ball has a weight of 5.5 to 6 oz. with the cue ball at a standard 6 oz. The balls are colored and grouped into solids and stripes and numbered accordingly. Custom balls are available offering an assortment of colors and markings and are often used in trick shooting to add visual appeal.